Millennials: You’ll keep in mind strolling into Abercrombie & Fitch within the late ‘90s and early 2000s. Loud, thumping music, fragrance so robust you would barely assume straight, and posters of half-naked males have been all a part of the expertise—and a want to really feel “cool.”
David Turner/WWD/Penske Media—Getty Photos
Mike Jeffries, Abercrombie’s former CEO, was behind that imaginative and prescient. And on Tuesday, he and his accomplice Matthew Smith have been arrested in Florida in reference to intercourse trafficking-related prices, based on a federal indictment. The duo, together with an worker of theirs, James Jacobson, allegedly ran a world intercourse trafficking and prostitution ring from 2008 to 2015 that allegedly concerned paying for secret intercourse with probably dozens of males, together with 15 unnamed victims.
The official indictment has been a very long time coming. Final 12 months, BBC launched a documentary about Jeffries’ shady practices. The BBC investigation revealed that Jeffries and Smith allegedly used a intermediary to seek out males to attend and take part within the intercourse occasions. Jeffries and Smith would allegedly have interaction in sexual exercise with about 4 males at these occasions or “direct” them to have intercourse with each other, a number of attendees from the occasions advised BBC. Jeffries’ private employees wearing Abercrombie uniforms and supervised the exercise, based on the allegations, and employees members gave attendees envelopes stuffed with 1000’s of {dollars} in money on the finish of the occasions.
LAURENT FIEVET/AFP/GettyImages
The intermediary “made it clear that until I let him carry out oral intercourse on me, I’d not be assembly with Abercrombie & Fitch or Mike Jeffries,” David Bradberry, who was launched to Jacobson in 2010 when he was 23 years outdated, advised BBC. An agent posing as a mannequin recruiter launched Bradberry to Jacobson, who described himself because the gatekeeper to the “house owners” of Abercrombie and Fitch, based on the BBC investigation.
The federal indictment included associated allegations and extra.
Jeffries’ shady previous with Abercrombie
Based on a 2006 interview with Salon, Jeffries wished to make the 130-year-old retailer into the hearthrob teen clothes model of the time, which he efficiently did—however not with out offending swaths of individuals. His interview just about sums up his advertising method as solely making it about “cool” folks.
“These corporations which can be in bother are attempting to focus on all people: younger, outdated, fats, skinny. However then you definitely grow to be completely vanilla,” Jeffries advised Salon. “You don’t alienate anyone, however you don’t excite anyone, both.”
Brooks Canaday/MediaNews Group/Boston Herald through Getty Photos
By 2006, Abercrombie & Fitch’s earnings had risen for 52 straight quarters, with annual income of greater than $2 billion. Plus, the corporate had opened lots of of latest brick-and-mortar shops and launched three new labels, together with Hollister.
“However the advertising method that made A&F right into a monetary success additionally made it an HR and PR nightmare,” based on NPR. Abercrombie’s method to advertising ignited a response from ladies by means of mock adverts and a boycott name from the American Decency Affiliation. Black, Latino, and Asian American staff in 2004 filed a class-action lawsuit in opposition to the corporate alleging minority candidates have been discouraged from making use of.
Within the early 2010s, Abercrombie began going south financially on account of age discrimination and hiring follow lawsuits, and Jeffries’ 2006 interview with Salon began being circulated once more and went viral. In 2013, Jeffries was named because the worst CEO of the 12 months by TheStreet’s Herb Greenberg. In addition, CNBC’s Jim Cramer named him to his “Wall of Disgrace.”
“Since its early buying and selling in 1996, Abercrombie has barely overwhelmed the S&P 500. It has dramatically trailed the index over the previous one-, three- and five-year marks,” Greenberg wrote in 2013. “The previous 12 months, particularly, has been an abomination, main activist agency Engaged Capital to demand his ouster.”
By 2014, same-store gross sales slumped for 11 straight quarters and two of its subsidiary manufacturers, Ruehl No.925 and Gilly Hicks, shut down only a few years after launch. Teenagers have been simply additionally over Abercrombie’s type at that time, and the shopping center period was coming to an in depth. And in 2016, Abercrombie was deemed the most-hated retailer by the American Buyer Satisfaction Index for its hypersexualized advertising and controversies.
Abercrombie’s second wind
However as Abercrombie has distanced itself from Jeffries, the model is making a significant comeback after posting its greatest first-quarter earnings in firm historical past this 12 months. Abercrombie reported $1 billion in internet gross sales, a 22% improve from 2023. Final 12 months, its annual revenues have been $5 billion.
YUKI IWAMURA/AFP—Getty Photos
This was an epic comeback for the model. CEO Fran Horowitz took the helm in 2017, revamping shops and inventories in addition to increasing sizes and introducing clothes for a wide range of existence.
“We moved from a spot of becoming in to creating a spot of belonging,” Horowitz stated in a 2022 speech on the Fordham College Gabelli College of Enterprise’ fifth annual American Innovation Convention.
